Touring in Europe
Winter in Switzerland & Round About Lucerne

Touring in Europe.

Winter in Switzerland.

(By Fanny E. Rieck.)

Writing from Delmenhorst, Germany, under date 1/8/06, Mrs. F. Rieck, formerly of Coff’s Harbour, continues the interesting narrative of the tour she and her husband are now making in Europe.

By request of our old friends around Grafton and Coff’s Harbour to keep on writing for the ever welcome “Examiner,” we send you a description of our “winter wanderings” in Switzerland. We were very pleased to hear recently from an old friend in Ulmarra that our letters are read with interest. The lady writes: “We have only just discovered your address in the ‘Examiner,’ and I want you to know how much pleasure your letters in that paper have given us. My husband usually reads the ‘Examiner’ first, and when he mentions that the Riecks have another letter in it, we all rush to read it. We are most grateful for the description of your travels. It must be glorious to see places you are visiting. What an education.”

December and January, 1905–6, found us in the ancient, interesting old city of Basel, where, sheltered by the Black Forest and Jeura Mountains, we spent one of the warmest winters we have experienced during our seven years’ sojourn in all parts of Europe. There was so little snow and ice this year that the young people had no skating, tobogganing or ski-shoe exercise. We were well content with such mild weather, as we were able to ride out on the river flats of the Rhine over the boundary into Germany with our cycles every week, and buy butter and eggs in the homely little German villages, where we soon made friends amongst the farmers. Basel is one of the richest towns in Switzerland, and its rich old aristocracy are most liberal to its many institutions. Excellent universities, colleges, free schools, libraries, museums, parks and gardens, and also many temperance restaurants are instituted, assisted by them to raise the tone of the people. Public buildings, villas and shops spring up like mushrooms, and the city on both sides of the Rhine is extending enormously. On the German side, called Little Basel, the German Government has built a new railway station, called the Badische Bagubot, and an enormous central station is being constructed on the Swiss side, Basel being the centre of trade and traffic with all the principal cities of Europe.

In February we left Basel for Zurich, which is the very central point of Europe. Situated on the extreme northern point of Lake Zurich, it commands a fine view of a chain of snow-topped Alpen peaks, distant about 50 miles. The chief public buildings in the old city are on the river Limmah, but the town is increasing so rapidly that the steep high hills on both sides, and the valley of the Siil River on the north, are for several miles around the old town covered with houses of artistic modern styles. The grand hotels, pensions and restaurants vie with each other in ornamental architecture and up-to-date comfort and luxury. A convenient electric railway carries passengers up the steep incline to the large technical school, called the “Polytechnikum,” which is so celebrated that it is visited by students from all parts of the world, more especially by Americans and Russians. The train goes further up to the elegant “Waldhaus” and “Dolder” hotels, which are only occupied by guests during the summer months. These buildings have gradually ousted the many fine vineyards which covered the hill previously and ran all along the western side of the lake. The vines were successfully cultivated in spite of ice, snow and inclement weather, and are healthy. Mostly white wine, similar to Rhine wine, is made. We were shown over the cellar of one of the oldest residents of the district, Mr. H. Meyer Tranbennerg, Zollicon, whose extensive estate has been 300 years in the same family. In this cellar were hundreds of enormous casks of wine, resembling those in the Rathskeller in Bremen. We saw the great wire presses for grapes, and also fruit wines, and tasted some of the choicest vintages. It seems as if wine had been too freely drunk in Zurich previously, for now in every street one notices so very many “alcohol-free” or temperance hotels and restaurants, where well cooked meals are served, and all is very orderly and decent. Besides these, there are in Zurich alone ten temperance restaurants, instituted and supported by the ladies of Zurich, where all classes can dine at reasonable rates. The price ranges from 40 to 150 centimes, or from 4d to 1s. per meal of soup, potatoes, meat, rice, maccaroni, or vegetables, also dried fruit, etc., as dessert. These restaurants are in the finest buildings, and are visited by well dressed people, mostly male and female students, teachers, clerks, and school children. At all day schools here the children are provided with meals at extremely cheap rates from the school kitchens, and all public school girls must go through a course of cooking before leaving the schools. In Zurich we found the most beneficial institutions for the public good. Thanks are due to its kind inhabitants, who, unlike those on the French side of Switzerland, are extremely kind and friendly to strangers and visitors to their beautiful city. Complaints are heard here, and also in parts of Germany, that the universities and school are too much overrun by Russian male and female students, especially of the Hebrew race.

The carnival was kept up here in right merry style for three days and nights, mostly by children and young people parading the streets in masks and costumes. A few comical processions marched along the streets, but dancing, parading, beer drinking, and confetti throwing were most indulged in. It is a merry time for the young people, who are much more jolly than the stiff and grave, but kind and good, English and North Germans. The weather being fairly good in February and the roads pretty dry, we ventured to make a tour all round Lake Zurich with cycles. We went down the eastern side via Zollikon, Kussnacht, Erlenbach, Herrliberg, Meilen, and Stafa to the ancient town of Rapperswil, which is the prettiest and most interesting place on the lake. After partaking of a substantial dinner, and sending off the usual post cards to friends, we visited the beautiful castle of Rapperswil and the little island where formerly “Lake Dwellings” existed, some remains of which are still to be seen. The lake is here crossed by a mile long dam and bridge, with railway and street. We had been round on the eastern side, facing the mighty snow-crowned Alpine world, with entrancing views of the lake and busy little villages dotted over the landscape; but here we regretfully turn our backs on the fascinating white heights, and return to Zurich on the west bank, via Altendorf, Pfaffikor, Waderswil, Hogan, Thalweil, Bandlikon, Wollishofen. Where the sun shone the roads were dry, but in the shade the snow lay thick, and in places we had plenty of walking, but were able, despite the short day, to enjoy a 70 kilometre run, which we much enjoyed. Zurich is celebrated for its silk manufactories, and silk may be bought here at a low figure. The manufactories employ all the local people, who look very decent, well dressed, well behaved, fat, and healthy. The largest silk factory on the lake not far from Zurich is Henneberg’s, a millionaire manufacturer, who has generously done much for the city of Zurich. The people are great lovers of music, and besides several fine opera houses and theatres, they have recently built a princely concert hall, called the “Tone Halle,” in which finest high-class music and singing are to be heard. We visited all the pretty places about. One of the most unique land marks we have seen is at the Elephant Brook, a favourite walk from the city. It consists of a most natural looking elephant’s head, with trunk, ears, tusks, and fore feet, carved out of a natural rock found in the bed of the brook. The trunk, fountain like, spouts water. In company with our hausfrau’s daughter, Miss Meili, one Sunday morning we ascended the highest hilltop near Zurich, called Hitiliberg, 8000ft., and the day being clear, we enjoyed one of the rarest views to be had of wild mountain scenery, and a panorama of the highest snowy peaks. Although the climb up was stiff, and sometimes dangerous and slippery, and in cold corners there were still soft snow drifts, we were well repaid, and in the grand hotel saloon enjoyed a substantial breakfast of cake and coffee, while listening to the music and singing dispensed from an enormous gramophone to a group of merry local visitors and tourists.

Our pleasant month in Zurich being at an end, and the weather being fair enough for cycling, we sent our luggage to Lucerne, and in the middle of March left per wheel for that place. We rose early, left our lodgings with its nice kind people at 7 o’clock, took a last longing look at the beautiful surroundings, especially the lake, bridges, boats, parks, and fine buildings, and then wheeled through the romantic Siflthal, via Wollishofen, Adliswil (a village with large silk weaving manufactories), to Siflbrugg. A fairly level road through forest country along the river Sihl was found, and after a good breakfast in a homely little inn, we walked up a long hill over a pass in the mountains, passed the town of Baar, and then had a fine long run down to the pretty little town of Zug, the largest on Lake Zug. This sheet of water is 14 kilometres long and 4 kil. broad. Here, as also in the forests we passed through, there were some fine deer to admire. About 5 kil. from Zug, on the western side of the lake, we stayed for dinner at the important little village of Cham, celebrated for its world-renowned manufactory of Swiss condensed milk. Long before reaching Cham we noticed numbers of carts, waggons, trollies, etc., with empty milk cans leaving the village in every direction, and learned that Cham was the depot for all the rich milk from these mountain slopes around Zug, Lucerne, Baar, and the villages around Lakes Vierwaldstater (lake of four cantons), Zug and Immer, besides quantities arriving by rail. Consequently the whole country smells of milk. Large quantities of sugar are used in its manufacture. As it began to rain lightly, we had no time to lose, and hurried through the fertile and well cultivated slopes to Lucerne, 60 kil. from Zurich, which we reached before 3 p.m. After a cup of coffee, and leaving our wheels at the temperance hotel “Helvetia,” we set out to look for a suitably furnished room for a month.

Round About Lucerne.

Lucerne and Interlaken are the most beautiful and the most fashionable, and therefore dearest places in Switzerland. But so early in the season there were very few visitors, and although our good hausfrau at first asked 60 francs per month for what was certainly a handsomely furnished room, she reduced it to 35 francs rather than let us go away and have her room empty. We were nowhere more comfortable than here, in the finest part of Towen-street. The room was high, airy, sunny, with electric light, good piano, and overlooking the majestic Pilatus Mountain. We settled down, and the following day, Sunday, was so very warm that, although it was only the 18th March, we left off our warmest winter wraps, and visited many of the beauty spots in and around Lucerne. We first visited the “Lion Monument,” which is a life-sized figure of a crouching lion, cut out of a high wall of natural rock 50ft. high, and situated in the side of a very steep hill, close to the town. The unique old roofed wooden foot bridges, with hundreds of oil paintings of historical themes, poetry, and legends, and the ancient water tower, were explored. The weather being fine, clear, and warm, the glorious lake was bathed in golden sunshine, studded with hundreds of little boats and grand steamers, and around this lovely picture the Rigi, Stanzerhorn, the majestic Pilatus, and other dazzling heights fascinate the eye. We ascended the lower hills where every turn and step forward presented an ever changing and charming view. The air was filled with the mellow music of the Alp horns, which echoed from the mountains and valleys far and near. The Alpen horn is a special musical instrument of the Swiss herdsmen and farmers, and when well played, or several instruments are played together, they resemble brass band music, and can be heard for very long distances in the light thin air of the mountains. We left Mount Pilatus behind us, and went far up the Reus River (of William Tell fame), and eventually crossed the river to its east bank by a ferry boat, which, like many we have seen on swift flowing rivers, runs by itself on a cable stretched across the stream, on a little pulley wheel forced by the strong current. Near the crossing is the little village of Emmen, and a small lake called the Red Lake. We returned home by the lovely cemetery, which occupies a beautiful spot overlooking the River Reus, the town of Lucerne, and the highly cultivated mountain slopes and valleys around. Near by are parks of fine deer, which are a great attraction to swarms of children, and also older people. On April 1st, Sunday excursion boats began to ply round the lake at the cheap fare of one franc, equal to 8d, and the good weather induced us to make a tour all round the lake by steamer. This lake is 30 miles long, about five miles broad, and has many narrow arms and bends, which stretch into four different cantons, from which it derives its name, “Lake of Four Cantons.” This day the steamer was crowded with people of all nations, but mostly with soldiers from all parts of Switzerland, who were at the time in garrison at Lucerne. We left the quay at 1 p.m., and crossed first to Weggis, which is called the “vegetable garden” of Lucerne. It has sunny and sheltered spots, where early vegetables can be cultivated. We called next at Vitznan, where the very first cog-wheel railway to be constructed ascends the Rigi Mountain. Numbers of people left the boat to go on the Rigi. Crossing the lake we touched next at Buocks and Berkenreid, where a beautiful waterfall is generally admired. The rugged mountains appear more unhomely, wild, and cruel, are covered by short brush heather, stunted trees, and sharp cliffs overhang from terrible heights. As we leave the more open lake by Brunnen, and turn up a narrow arm, the lake is quite darkened by precipitous walls of stupendous, rugged, snow-capped mountain tops, above which the Uri Rostock towers over. On the right hand a single high flat rock, resembling a big tombstone, stands out of the water. On this rock the Swiss people have engraved in large gilt letters the name of “Schiller,” in remembrance of his famous writings on this part of the country, especially “William Tell,” a legend which has made the Switzer country famous. Almost opposite Schiller’s monument is a lovely little chapel, dedicated to the memory of William Tell. It is called “Tellsplatte,” and as it nestles at the foot of the rugged heights of the mountain, it presents one of the most charming sights in the world. We move reluctantly on to Fluelen, at the end of the lake, and here, leaving the steamer in company with some friends, walked back along the beautiful Axens-road, which is boldly constructed of bridges and tunnels hewn out of the rocky mountain sides. From openings like large windows in the tunnels views can be had of the wonderfully formed mountain cliffs, the sea-green lake, backed by dazzling white peaks towering amongst the clouds. Below this road, parallel with the lake, is the railway, which has in many places to be protected from the rocks and stones, which constantly roll down from the steep and dangerous sides of the mountain gorges. Protection is afforded by strong timber walls or fences 20 to 30 feet high. Pretty cascades and waterfalls dashed down from the heights, and we were able to gather heather and many other pretty flowers even at this early season of the year, but no fresh green was to be seen on trees or shrubs, which were still in their winter sleep. Close to Brunnen the St. Gothard tunnel can be seen entering the mountains close by the fine hotels “Axenstein” and “Axenfells,” where millionaires can easily get rid of their superfluous cash. Joining the steamer again at Brunnen, we enjoyed a glorious sunset journey back to Lucerne. If I have used too many adjectives in describing the scenery, one must remember that it is the most beautiful in all Europe, perhaps in the world. Lucerne is the most favored resort of English and American tourists. Two miles out, at Seeburg, is an English Polytechnic, Pensions, Church and cemetery, in which to bury all the adventurous Englishmen who lose their lives on the mountains. Special excursion trips to and from London, with ten days spent in the Pensions at Seeburg, together with guides, etc., can be had at a very small cost by joining the clubs in London, but the favourite wintering places are on the Glaciers, high up on the sunny sides of the highest mountain plateaus, like the “Berner High Alps,” Engadine, Davos, St. Gallen, etc., where popular “winter sports” attract travellers from all over the world. We met many English tourists from these winter resorts. They were all as brown as gipsies, and told us that the sun always shone hot from the glaciers, the air was light and fresh, they required no extra warm clothing, and could go about every day tobogganing, skating, or with ski shoes. In spring and summer they return to their own generally neglected country, England, of whose beauty spots they were mostly quite ignorant, always preferring to travel in foreign countries. Many remarked, “You have seen much more of England than we have.”

From Lucerne we visited all the available places possible by cycle, but the roads are so badly metalled with rough sharp stones that the poor cycles were badly cut. We generally returned home per steamer minus air. The high mountain climbing we left for younger and more venturesome spirits, but ascended all the lower hills, and left very few spots unexplored. At the end of April we reluctantly left these charming scenes for North Germany, where we had promised to take charge of a villa at Delmenhorst for a friend whose business required him to travel to Chili, South America, for a couple of years, accompanied by his wife and family. Leaving Lucerne by train for a change, we travelled first to Schaffhausen, to visit the celebrated Falls of the Rhine. The falls present a grand sight, and have a mighty flow of water, but they are not high. We took out our wheels, visited the picturesque old town of Schaffhausen, with its ancient quaint old houses, streets, and gateways, its grey old church towers, high pointed gables, curious old marble fountains and monuments, but we had not long to stay, for we had to “do” Lake Constance next. We cycled via Stein, and admired the lofty citadel or castle “Hokenklingen,” perched like an eagle’s nest on a solitary cliff, a remnant of ancient times, took lunch in the clean little village close by, and then rode through highly cultivated fields, gardens, and vineyards on fine roads until we reached the north end of the Lake Constance, with its low banks encircled by high poplar trees, till we came to Radolfszell. Thence riding round a point of the lake, we came to Ludwigshaven; from whence a grand carriage road runs along the banks of the lake at the foot of timbered and cultivated hills, till we reached Fredericks Haven. Thence our route lay through Germany to the north. After an early supper at Fredericks Haven we walked around the charming little town, admired the towered castle of the Duke of Wurtemburg, and at 8 o’clock boarded the train for the north, only stopping the night at Frankfort to view the fine collection of animals in the Zoological Gardens, where we were especially amused by the elephant and his barrel-organ and the funny gambols of a recently purchased orang-outang, which cost £500. The beginning of May found us, at the end of a year’s travelling, in happy possession of a home again, with beautiful park and gardens. Ducks, fowls, gardening, preserve and red currant wine making have taken up our time so much that we had almost left these notes unwritten, but if only a few appreciate the reading we are all well repaid by keeping in touch with our Australian friends at home.