Foreign Parts
Rome, Italy

Foreign Parts.

On Tour from New South Wales.

[By H. and F. Rieck.]

Rome, 30th March, 1899.

The Italians of the South and also the Romans are very conservative. Twelve years ago there was in one of the great niches of St. Peter’s dome here the toe of the colossal marble statue of Pope Pius IX, quite worn away by the kisses of the pilgrims. Since then this statue has been removed, and instead of it hangs high and beautiful painted portrait of this deceased high priest, and where that marble monument stood the bronze statue of the apostle Petrus has been erected, and to our astonishment we perceived that the protruding toe of this brazen image is considerably worn away by kisses of the pilgrims from far and near, females and males, old and young, rich and poor, and this kissing goes on daily and hourly.

The little trade in the old streets of Rome (like in those of Naples, etc.) is the same as long ago. There appear not to be any modern manufactories of great consequence, but there are the little osterias, trattorias, and albergos (restaurants and small hostelries) as well as an enormous number of different classes of small merchants and handicraft artisan shops, each by an instinctive neighbourly regard for the right of his fellow citizen keeping to its own article, and not interfering with another. There are dealers in curios, ironmongery, leather articles, milk, drapery, etc. He who sells tobacco and salt would not sell coffee or tea, and the merchant of the latter would not sell cheese and butter, and the seller of wooden furniture is too proud to sell ironmongery. The many little handicraft-artisans are at work in the smaller, but very clean, streets of the older Rome as boot-repairers, tailors and menders of clothes, tinsmiths, black and lock smiths, coopers and cask repairers, painters, sculptors, potters, engravers, printers with the old style hand press, bookbinders and repairers of old hymn books, etc. Only in the great, new, broad and glittering modern streets, where the electric tram rattles unceasingly along, as in the Via del Populo, Corso Vittore Emanuele, Via Nationale, Via del Corso, Via della Quattro Fontana, etc., are there the enormous windows of the great shops, where everything, from the hydraulic windlass and gas motor, down to the Röntgen ray instrument and Waterbury watch, is bought, imported from every corner of the globe. In these grand new streets of Rome are also the banks, hotels, Government buildings, modern art galleries, also palaces where great professors, painters, sculptors, music composers, actors and actresses, dentists, etc., reside. But I remember having seen also very poor professors, painters, sculptors, doctors, dentists, etc., putting up their slabs in the smaller streets of old conservative Rome, where so many great things have started up, and, after a while, are cast into this enormous old “dust-bin.”

Under one of the plafonds of the art galleries of that part of the Vatican which is open to the public in that very liberal and courteous style which at present the high R.C. church authorities show, we sat and admired high under the ceiling a very simple in clair-obscure fresco, but with miraculously executed prospective, a picture of an antique room. While looking up towards the arched plafond at this painting you would think a small marble hall was opening before your eyes. In the background stands a golden glittering crucifix, and before it, as clearly drawn as if it were realistic, lays the remains of a marble statue of one of the ancient Roman deities (images), broken up mercilessly and scattered in pieces in the dust before the golden jewel.

There has been a time in this city and country of Rome when the early Christians were severely persecuted by the Roman population and authorities; but then came also a time when the fanatic population and Church and State authorities worked very hard to smash the monuments of ancient Rome, the works of high classic art and of many centuries of striving for the better. It is very significant that the abovementioned crucifix is painted in gold, for this metal is stronger in destroying than iron and steel, as it is also stronger in building up again. Even in our present time we have seen that Spain (not by want of Canonici) through want of good steel cannon and gold is at present as ruthlessly tumbled over as that marble image in the Vatican here above our heads. But in view of Him who died at Golgotha for his poor brethren, we may all pray that we may be saved from fanaticism, hatred and egotism, for no nation nor social class, blinded by fanaticism, egotism and hatred can claim any privilege or right to guide others.

Rome at the present time is not a commercial centre; it is neither a manufacturing town nor exporter of own products. I think it mainly exists, like all Italy, through the enormous influx of sight-seeing foreigners from all parts of the globe. But in a time gone by some 2000 years Rome was the centre of the world, and the riches of the then known parts of the orbis terrarum were by fair or foul means dragged together at this spot. Ancient Rome at the present time is not much more than an enormous dust-bin, and the accumulation of soil has in these more than twenty centuries caused a rise of the surface of the ground, in the lower parts to the extent of 20 or 30 feet. The Forum of old Rome, of which at least the pavement has remained, is at present this much lower than the adjoining modern streets. This fact demonstrates what enormous multitudes of men have lived, increased, cried, laughed and died on this one spot of the globe whilst Australia was resting in virgin solitude, and where many places have not yet been greeted by the smiles or misery of men.

Tired of contemplating grand old stones and admiring oil and fresco paintings of old and young masters, we refreshed our minds by walking in the green hills around Rome, through the gardens and fields of Villa Pamphili, Monte Pincio, Villa Medici, etc., and perceiving that the calm sunny springtime had at last woke up over Europe, we resolved to proceed northward towards Florence.

St. Peter’s Cathedral.

Rome.—The city of churches, truly. Every 100 or 200 yards, in almost every street, you see a dome or spire with crosses. We have here a very comfortable pleasant lodging-place in a street leading to the grand St. Peter’s Cathedral, and amongst priests and good Catholics. In Naples we resided in a Church of England Mission house, and now we are under the wing of St. Peter, the Pope, and the Vatican. St. Peter’s Cathedral is a majestic structure of masonry, hundreds of feet high, with one high dome and one small dome on each side. In front is a piazza nearly encircled by very high pillars, a colossal obelisk in the centre, and two magnificent high jet fountains on each side. It is paved with stone. The interior of the cathedral is elaborately carved, gilded and frescoed, the different ceilings, beautifully painted with scriptural scenes, and the many niches in the walls filled with scripture texts and casts, mostly of the different Popes. The organ sounds like distant thunder, and candles burn at all times. The pictures of Madonna and child are a mass of brilliant gems, also the crucifixes. One day we went with a German friend, who is one of the Pope’s guards, to see the Vatican, which adjoins the Cathedral on the right-hand side. We were four hours walking through galleries, looking at statuary—“marvels in marble” and alabaster, statues by Titian, Michael Angelo, and all the old masters. Some were such enormous slabs of marble and granite that it is wonderful how they were excavated in such large pieces. This collection of statuary is the oldest and most valuable in the world, and is the work of centuries. While viewing these beauties the old song came oft in my mind “I dreamt I dwelt in marble halls.” It was a pleasant change when we came to a garden, and there saw a little pond and fountain, with fish of many brilliant colours—crimson, blue, green, yellow, white, and with black spots. Another day we spent admiring the pictures in the Vatican. One hall contained most perfect gems in oils, painted by Murillo, Corregio, Raphael, Titian, Michael Angelo, and others. The general subjects were the Madonna and child, and others showing the development of Christianity in different times. Some were enormous; we liked the “Ascension” and “Madonna” (by Raphael) best. In some of the halls the ceilings were painted in lovely scenes. We visited the renowned Sistine Chapel, but it was being repaired, and was all in disorder. We go again later on.

Forum.

We visited the Forum Trojano and Forum Romano, and saw old temples of Faustina, Castor and Pollux, Basilica, Temple of Vesta, etc. These old ruins are now 30 to 40 feet below the Roman streets of to-day. The triumphal arches, of which there are several, are wonderfully sculptured. Then we went to the Colosseum, the greatest amphitheatre of olden time; an enormous pile of masonry, now fast going to ruin. Julius Caesar assisted to build it, to give the people amusement and make himself popular. The plays of olden time were performed there, also bull-baiting, fighting with lions and other wild beasts, tournaments, and marine plays; the murder of Christians by wild beasts also took place here. The outside walls are about 200 feet high, having sloping seats towards the arena in the centre, which is about 2 acres in extent, encircled by a wall for the protection of the public. Under the arena are the subterranean tunnels and pens for wild beasts and prisoners. The arena could be flooded for marine plays.

National Art Gallery.

We have seen many pictures, but we like the Gallerie Nationale best. The pictures were so varied and beautiful I cannot describe them, but they were mostly from Nature and touched our sympathies more than the imaginary subjects of the Churches. We can see the Romans of to-day are just as good masters of art as in ancient times. The works of Palazzi, who is now 80 years of age, are varied and beautiful, especially his animals. Cesari Antonio’s painting of “Christ before Pilate” is very beautiful, also the paintings of Ercole Rose, whose sculpture is also very good. I felt after this visit that I had seen something of Art in Rome. It is a pity that this lovely gallery of Art is almost passed over by tourists, who prefer to visit old R.C. churches, of which there must be close on a thousand in Rome and suburbs.

Near Piazza Espagna we visited a private sculpture gallery. The models there we admired very much, the subjects being fresh and original, especially the little children and animals. There were some life-size beautiful terra cotta heads also.

There are many statues at Villa Medici (called the French Academy), but the works are mostly copies of those in the Vatican, and being old and made of gypsum they do not look fresh and nice. As this lovely villa is deserted and neglected, many sculptors and artists have studios or rooms in and around its grounds.

The favourite walk and drive in Rome is Monte Pincio, a garden and park high above and overlooking the town. There every afternoon can be seen crowds of people and the Roman aristocracy driving in grand equipages, with splendid high-stepping horses. The band plays there almost every afternoon. There is a clock which is worked by water, and never requires winding up.

Roman Peasant Girls.

It is peculiar that the pretty and original dress worn by peasant girls never changes. It is worn only by country girls, the Roman ladies dressing plainly and natty in ordinary European dress, but the peasant wears a very wide short skirt, generally of brown cloth, with white linen body and long full sleeves, and cut low and square in the neck to show rows of red beads. The stays—generally black, and the back trimmed or laced with broad close bands of silk or braid—are worn outside the dress body, but under the skirts. A long blue or yellow apron, coloured stockings and low shoes are worn, and a folded square of white linen lies flat on the head, and falls to the neck behind. The apparel of men and boys looks just as romantic. They wear maroon velvet pants to the knee, long blue stockings, and sandals fastened with different coloured cords round feet and legs. The maroon coloured coat is short and open in front to show yellow or blue waistcoat with bright buttons. The hat has a high crown and narrow brim turned up, with a bow or feather on one side. A short chubby stick is generally carried in the hand. These country people come from the highlands east of Rome.

The Capitol.

The Capitol we visited on a free entrance day and it was very crowded. It is a museum, art and sculpture gallery for ancient relics of Rome. The pictures are very beautiful, renowned, and of great value, also the statuary, but there is beginning to be a sameness in the subjects of the latter, as we have seen so much of it lately. The museum mostly contains old pottery, ironmongery, bronze, brass, steel, bones and skulls, very much the same as in Naples.

Villa Phamphill.

Close by Rome and near the immense bronze statue of Garibaldi, is a lovely villa belonging to a rich aristocratic Roman family, who allow the public to visit and roam over its lovely meadows twice a week. We had a lovely walk there on a bright sunny day. There are about 200 acres of park and meadow land, with different shrubs trees and wild flowers growing, the latter different to any we have seen in Australia. Some beautiful cows were grazing contentedly in the meadows. Around the mansion was a well laid out garden, with gorgeous flowers and border plants. A winding drive took us round the home, farm and dairy, and we saw the farm horses, peacocks, pigeons, etc.; for the latter a stone tower was built, with winding staircase. Further on brought us to a weir or lake, half a mile long, with artificial islands, grottos, bridges, cosy seats, ferns and fish. From thence, through immense hot, fern and shade houses—where we saw bananas just planted out of the hot houses—we returned by a lodge and under a noble avenue of trees to the villa, which is facing St. Peter’s Cathedral. The winding road must have taken us 3 to 4 miles, but it was a Roman country walk we will always remember with pleasure.